Creagantairbh Beag Cairns

Trip No.88  Entry No.4  Date Added: 1st Aug 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 18th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Creagantaribh Beag Cairns (near gate to the track leading to the Glennan Standing Stones: see report for Glennan Standing Stones. We spotted the larger cairn on the way to the standing stone; these smaller two (nearest the gate) we spotted on the way back to the car.

Kintraw (Kilmartin)

Trip No.88  Entry No.2  Date Added: 31st Jul 2018
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 18th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 5 Access 4

Log Text: Kintraw Standing Stones and Cairns: This standing stone, when we spotted it on the evening of 17th July looked magnificent, but we couldn’t find anywhere to park; approaching this stone from the direction of Ardfern, there was a gateway to the field to pull into, which gave us just room to pull off this busy, fast road.

What a complex site. And what beautiful weather we had to enjoy it.The standing stone first catches your eye, but then the large cairn, with its huge pile of stones, grabs the attention, and then to the north east, with a smaller one by your feet almost next to the gate. Walking closer, we became aware of a ring cairn (?) just to the south east of the standing stone., at first view this looked like a ‘court’ cairn, made up of a ring of small upright stones – all with views over Loch Craignish from this perch on the hillside. Brilliant.

There were also traces of another, flattened cairn, to the north of the ring cairn-standing stone-larger cairn alignment.

To the east-south-east of the larger cairn was what looked like an old stone farm building, which I didn’t photograph as I thought this was modern. According to the OS map which I’m looking at now, it is noted as a ‘fort’.

This is my new ‘favourite spot’. Can I come back soon, please?

Port Nan Athlaich (Craignish)

Trip No.88  Entry No.1  Date Added: 31st Jul 2018
Site Type: Cist Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 18th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 3

Log Text: Port Nan Athlaich Cist, Aird, Craignish: I counted this as 'a bit more of a walk' as it wasn't a simple walk along a footpath, but involved a large step over a ruinous barbed wire fence and taking a few stepping stones across a stream. The walk is glorious, and is to be recommended.

Since we’d stayed at the small cottage on Aird’s Farm not far away, we’d wanted to come here and watch the sun go down of an evening, but quite a few other visitors also wanted to do that, so we watched from our hillside vantage point above.

Finally, on our last but one day, we made the trip down the track. We parked at the small car park half way down the headland, finding other people already camped out at Aird Jetty, and started to walk down to the end of the peninsula, with map in hand, to try and find the cist marked on the OS map. As we’d had no internet connection in all the time we’d been here, we had no idea of the actual grid reference, or what we might find – all we knew was that ‘cist’ was marked on the OS map.

Apart from clambering over some ruinous fences, fording a small stream and trying not to get bogged down in the marshy bits, the cist wasn’t actually difficult to find, as it was on top of a cairn like mound with a great view out to sea to the south and west.

The cist burial seemed to be completely undisturbed. The capstone was cracked, and when I stood on the smaller section to photograph the crack, the smaller part of the rock moved a few inches. Curious, we very gently eased it out of the way by a couple of inches and had a quick look inside. It was very similar to the recreated cist we saw at the Kilmartin museum.

Looking at the cist from afar, it looked as if the cist was on a natural mound, but enhanced around the burial itself.

Kilmartin Churchyard (Lapidarium)

Trip No.87  Entry No.18  Date Added: 20th Aug 2018
Site Type: Sculptured Stone Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Kilmartin Church (Lapidarium): See visit report for Kilmartin Churchyard (MP87.18)

Kilmartin Churchyard (Poltalloch Enclosure)

Trip No.87  Entry No.18  Date Added: 20th Aug 2018
Site Type: Sculptured Stone Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 3 Access 4

Log Text: The Poltalloch Enclosure, Kilmartin churchyard: See main report for Kilmartin churchyard (MP 87.18).

Kilmartin Churchyard

Trip No.87  Entry No.18  Date Added: 7th Aug 2018
Site Type: Sculptured Stone Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Kilmartin Churchyard: Having booked ourselves in for an evening meal at the Kilmartin Arms opposite the church (warning: the portions were huge, but really good), we went across to the churchyard to find the cross slabs in the churchyard that Rachel Butter mentions in her "Kilmartin" book (page 99) and found so much more. This really finished the evening off nicely.

There is also a lapidarium and the Poltalloch Enclosure with some really nice carved grave slabs.

There is a small car park immediately outside the church, and there is disabled access into the church with its crosses inside. The churchyard itself was a little tricky to negotiate, as we had to step over old chest tombs to see some of the carved slabs. Nice views down to the glen below, and a peaceful place to spend time.

Glebe Cairn

Trip No.87  Entry No.17  Date Added: 6th Aug 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 3

Log Text: Glebe Cairn, Kilmartin: By the time I’d walked from Nether Largie Stone Alignment, across to Temple Wood and to Nether Largie, South, Mid, North and Glebe Cairn, I realised it was quite a long way (about 2km the sign post said), but I hadn’t really noticed the distance as the sites were so fascinating to see.

From the lane leading from Nether Largie North Cairn, you need to cross a footbridge over Kilmartin Burn at NR 83147 98870. At this time of evening, the dragon flies were flitting over the water and the sheep were starting to gathered in a line along the fence.

Following the grassy footpath towards this huge heap of stones, I walked all the way around this cairn, which seemed much larger than the others. There were no real distinguishing features, such as cists or cist covers, that were visible. The mound seemed disturbed in places, with stones pushed out in small ‘arms’ here and there along its edges.

Rachel Butter’s Kilmartin book (page 58) says: “The Glebe Cairn: Excavators found two small stone circles beneath the cairn with two finely made pots and a jet necklace placed in two cists. The cairn is smaller than it was a century ago – in 1864 it was at least 4 metres high and 33 metres across.”

Nether Largie North

Trip No.87  Entry No.16  Date Added: 6th Aug 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Nether Largie North, Kilmartin: From afar (approaching it from Nether Largie Mid) this cairn had a white square in the middle of its top, which looked like Cairnpapple, which got me thinking you could enter the chamber. This was indeed the case, as the white square was a hatch which could be raised to descend into the chamber.. According to the information board, the capstone has 10 carved axes.

By this time, I think ‘monument overload’ had come over Andrew, who decided to go and get the car, saying he’d meet me at Kilmartin Church, giving me time to visit this cairn and Glebe Cairn before meeting him. I only had one walking pole, and overbalanced whilst trying to climb up the heap so stones so reluctantly gave up. I was disappointed not to be able to see this. We thought we might find time to go back and explore, but there really was so much else to see. One for the next visit.

Nether Largie Mid

Trip No.87  Entry No.15  Date Added: 6th Aug 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Nether Largie Mid-Cairn: This cairn is not quite as impressive as Nether Largie South, but we found it fascinating to look at. Reading Webb's "In The Footsteps of Kings" she says the cairn was originally placed on a slightly raised terrace, but its position has been exaggerated because the ground beyond the fence has been ploughed, and reduced in height over time." The course of the Kilmartin Burn has also been straightened; it once would have meandered around all these cairns in this 'linear cemetery'. By the time we'd reached this cairn, the stream of visitors had slackened off, and we had time to sit and admire this glorious glen.

Despite searching for some time, we didn't find the axehead carving or the cup mark in the southern cist, nor could we seen the cup marked rock 10m to the north west. I did take a number of photos inside the cist, including the inside of the capstone, as sometimes faint carvings show up better on the photos, but nothing was visible. We tried!

The notice boards on site read: “Nether Large Mid lies at the midpoint of Kilmartin Glen’s line of cairns. Its edge is marked by kerbstones. Two important people were buried here 4,000 years ago. In 1929, archaeologist James Hewat Craw found two empty stone graves or ‘cists’ underneath this Bronze Age cairn. The bodies they once contained had dissolved away in the acid soil. An axehead is faintly carved inside the southern grave. Concrete posts show the position of the northern one.”

“The line of cairns stretches for more than 2.5 miles (4km). Look up the glen to Nether Large North and Glebe. Look down to Nether Large South and Ri Cruin, surrounded by trees. A sixth cairn between here and Nether Largie South was destroyed in the 1880s. This was the burial place of the elite. Their power had probably been based on controlling the flow of metal from Ireland up the Great Glen to bronze-working centres in north-east Scotland.”

Nether Largie South

Trip No.87  Entry No.14  Date Added: 6th Aug 2018
Site Type: Chambered Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Nether Largie South: Impressively large, with a chamber you can get into. Have seen other chambered cairns in Northumberland, but all in pretty ruinous condition, nothing like this. Our second stop after the stone alignment. Beautiful location; a lot of other visitors at this time of year.

Temple Wood N

Trip No.87  Entry No.13  Date Added: 4th Aug 2018
Site Type: Stone Circle Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Temple Wood North East circle: Within sight of the Temple Wood South West circle (I got my bearings all confused here!). This cairn has obviously been recreated, with concrete posts and blocks representing post holes and kerb stones. Nicely done.

Temple Wood S

Trip No.87  Entry No.12  Date Added: 4th Aug 2018
Site Type: Stone Circle Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Temple Wood South West Circle: We had this site all to ourselves for all of five minutes before other parties followed us in. We did look for the rock art quite carefully, but were unable to find it.

Nether Largie Stone Row

Trip No.87  Entry No.11  Date Added: 7th Aug 2018
Site Type: Stone Row / Alignment Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Nether Largie Stone Alignment: Ever since I read about this alignment in the early text for the Portal's book "The Old Stones" I've wanted to visit this location. It's in a lovely, lovely, setting, in the Kilmartin Glen. Having got used to Northumberland where you largely only see sheep or cattle around monuments, I was so disappointed by the number of people visiting here. We had two attempts, one being late in the evening, but there were still plenty of folks here. The photographers amongst us 'queued up' to take photographs along the alignment; when it was my turn, a family meandered over and spent half an hour wandering up and down the row, oblivious to me standing there with the camera. I did manage a couple of photographs along the alignment, but had to chose my moments when they were behind one of the stones! Congratulations to the Kilmartin Museum for having a great tourist trail, but I'd like to come back in late January/February, when hopefully there would be less visitors. After this visit, we stuck to sites largely off the main tourist trail.

Nether Largie standing stone

Trip No.87  Entry No.11  Date Added: 7th Aug 2018
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: Nether Largie Standing Stone/Outlier to the stone alignment: The gate into the field with this standing stone was wired shut and the book we had with us asked us not to intrude into the field. There was also a group of largely, lively bullocks clustered around the gate, so we contented ourselves with looking from afar, from the Nether Largie Stone Alignment.

Glenamacrie Farm

Trip No.87  Entry No.10  Date Added: 30th Jul 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Saw from a distance on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 3 Access 4

Log Text: Glenamacrie Farm Cairn: Having stopped to look at the standing stones, with waist height, new wire fence and barbed wire all around this field, the nearest gate appeared to be by the farmhouse. If we'd been bold enough to walk up the farm track to get a closer look, we'd have got much better photos, but something about these big farms always holds me back. I contented myself with photographing the stones by leaning over the top of the fence, trying not to get caught by the barbed wire. It wasn’t until I got back to the car that Andrew (who’d stayed in the car in case the roadworks crane needed to come by) had got a mobile signal and told me this was a cairn. I’ve only got it photographed over the top of the standing stones/stone row.

Clenamacrie Stone Row

Trip No.87  Entry No.9  Date Added: 31st Jul 2018
Site Type: Stone Row / Alignment Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 3 Access 5

Log Text: Glenamacrie/Clenamacrie Stone Row: After An Dun, we headed off a few hundreds yards west back down the road. I took two lots of photos here, because I think I mistook an outcrop (an unmown area of the field with stones protruding, at NM 92745 28409). Andrew had mentioned both a ‘stone row’ and ‘four stones forming a chamber’, so I thought I had photographed the right thing. Driving down to the farm, I spotted the right three standing stones in a field nearer the farm, which I also photographed. Andrew said the ‘lump’ in the field behind was also a cairn, but this was the closest I could get, so we’ve got these standing stones with the cairn behind.

I wish now I’d had the courage to go and ask to see these up close, but I felt intimidated because the farm was so big and the gate into the field seemed to be along the far end of the track. I can’t get used to the ‘responsible right to roam’ act in Scotland, but it still feels like trespassing at times, especially when you are going doing someone’s driveway.

Glenamacrie Dun

Trip No.87  Entry No.8  Date Added: 30th Jul 2018
Site Type: Stone Fort or Dun Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 4

Log Text: An Dun/Glenamachrie Dun: Not far to the east of the cairns and standing stone at Glenamachrie Farm. We bypassed those, and came here first to take photos then turn the car around to go back and photograph the standing stones and cairn. When husband came back, he said he’d had the most bizarre experience. As we stopped at the different sites along this road, we kept being passed by three men in a white truck; Andrew said they’d stopped him asking him if he’d seen a crane. I think on these narrow roads we’d most definitely have been run off the road and noticed. He said ‘no’. However, that alerted us to having to move on, just in case.

Left alone in the middle of nowhere for a few minutes, my first reaction was: “If this is a fort, there weren’t really any outer banks and ditches – this just looked like a large outcrop with a small terrace around it.” These Scottish duns/fort are quite unlike the hillforts we have in England. But then I hadn’t seen Dun Add.

Glenamachrie Cairn

Trip No.87  Entry No.7  Date Added: 30th Jul 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 3 Access 5

Log Text: Glenamachrie Cairn: This cairn was marked on the map on the way to An Dun fort and the standing stone to the east; I asked “if we spot this, can we stop”, and there it stood, almost on top of the road. As the road was quite busy with lots of cars and trucks going by, Andrew moved the car to the other side of the road and stayed in it, just in case he needed to move.

There were other small lumps and bumps in the fields either side of the river at this point, although indications on Canmore say these may be natural features, possibly glacial deposits - see Canmore 23191 and 23196.

Clach na Carraig

Trip No.87  Entry No.6  Date Added: 29th Jul 2018
Site Type: Standing Stone (Menhir) Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 3 Ambience 4 Access 5

Log Text: Clach na Carraign, Lorn: When Andrew said ‘that’s the standing stone’ as we approached it on the road, I thought at first this was just part of an old buttress, like the one’s at St. Matthew’s Old Church in Roslin. I wasn’t until I got closer and had photographed the small cairn to its east, that I really looked saw it was actually a huge block of stone.

It is really impressive, especially so with its location near the stone circle and two cairns. It is right by the road, but we visited the stone circle and the larger, now ruinous cairn, on our way to really appreciate this stone.

Strontoiller Large Cairn

Trip No.87  Entry No.5  Date Added: 29th Jul 2018
Site Type: Cairn Country: Scotland (Argyll)
Visited: Yes on 17th Jul 2018. My rating: Condition 2 Ambience 3 Access 4

Log Text: Strontoiller Round Cairn, Lorn: This cairn is just to the south west of the stone circle. From the stone circle, it definitely looks like a grassed-over round cairn. As we walked over to it, on our way back to the standing stone, I was not convinced we were looking at the right thing, but the GPS and its position in relation to the stone circle and the standing stone were correct.

In actual fact, looking back on the photographs, and now having seen a number of large, circular, stony cairns, I realise what I was looking at, and wished I’d taken more notice at the time (well, I confess to being keen to see more standing stones before having to head off back to the cottage).