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<< County Introductions >> County Guides No.20 - Argyll

Submitted by Saille on Sunday, 18 July 2004  Page Views: 12916

Multi-periodCountry: Scotland County: Argyll
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Stravanan Bay
Stravanan Bay submitted by RMG : Stravanan Bay, Isle of Bute (Vote or comment on this photo)
Having been cut off for centuries from the rest of Scotland by the mountains and sea lochs that characterize the region, Argyll remains remote. Its scatter of offshore islands form part of the Inner Hebridean archipelago. Geographically as well as culturally, it is a transitional area between Highland and Lowland, boasting a rich variety of scenery, from the lush, subtropical gardens warmed by the Gulf Stream to the flat, treeless islands in the countryside. The interplay of land and water and the views out to the islands, are where the strengths and beauties of mainland Argyll lie.

When it comes to historic monuments Argyll is the place to visit. Firstly I would also like to say that Argyll is a very large area to cover, so I apologize in advance for not mentioning all of the sites in this article, apart from a few here and there. I live on Bute so if anyone would like to contact me for more information please do - I will leave my e-mail address at the end.

Overall, the population is tiny, even Oban, Argyll's chief ferry port, has just seven thousand inhabitants, while the prettiest, Inveraray, boasts a mere four hundred.

The main area of man-made sights not to be missed, however, is the cluster of Celtic and prehistoric sites near Kilmartin. The Kilmartin valley is an area of enormous archaeological significance, with more than 350 ancient monuments in a 6 mile radius of Kilmartin, 150 of which are prehistoric. These include standing stones, cairns, and chambered tombs, some of them relics dating back over 5000 years. One of those sites is known as Dunnadd, lying off the A816 road, (OS map 55: NR837936). It is a large hill fort, a stronghold of Dalriada, the early kingdom of the Scots. Occupied from the Iron Age, items of interest include a stone footprint, basin and fork carvings. Dunnadd is possibly one of the most important historic sites in Argyll.

The Western duo of Bute and Arran are Scotland's most popular southerly islands, the latter - now, strictly speaking, part of North Ayrshire - justifiably so, with spectacular scenery ranging from the granite peaks of the north to the lowland pasture of the south. People have been living on Bute for around 5,500 years, attracted to the island and sustained by its fertile slopes and sheltered harbours. During your explorations, you may come across stone circles, burial cairns, cists and cup marks. There are many archaeological finds on display in the Bute Museum including a Bronze Age jet necklace and sword. Bute is certainly rich with archaeology - try Auchagallon Cairn and Stone circle on Arran (NR893346). There is so much I could tell you but I won’t I will leave it to you to contact me for more information.

Of the Hebridean islands covered in this section, mountainous Mull is the most visited, although it is large enough to absorb the crowds, many of whom are only passing through en-route to the tiny isle of Iona, which has been a centre of Christian culture since the sixth century. Places to see include Scotland’s holiest shrine, Iona Abbey (off the A849 road OS map 48: NM287245). Although the present abbey and nunnery date from medieval times, it was here in the year 563 AD/CE that St Columba founded the first monastery bringing Christianity to Scotland. Many Scottish Kings are buried in the graveyard.

Islay, best known for its distinctive malt whiskies, is reasonably quiet even in the height of summer. One place to visit here is Kildalton cross and chapel (located off the A846 road, OS map 60: NR458508). The Celtic cross, which is preserved in the churchyard, is the finest surviving high cross in Scotland. Standing 2.7 metres (9ft) high, it was cut from a single slab of stone. Nearby there are also a number of early grave-slabs, among them a figure of a medieval knight.

The neighbouring Isle of Jura also offers excellent walking opportunities and like Islay has many stone rows doted throughout the countryside. For those seeking further solitude, there are the more remote islands of Tiree Coll, which, although swept by the winds, boast more sunny days than anywhere else in Scotland. The Totronald standing stones on Coll are definitely worth a visit (NR16655594).

Argyll’s name derives from Aragaidheal, which translates as "Boundary of the Gaels" - the Irish Celts who settled here in the fifth century AD/CE, and whose Kingdom of Dalriada embraced much of what is now Argyll. It was known earlier to the Romans as Scotti, hence "Scotland". It was these Irish Celts who promoted Celtic Christianity, and whose Gaelic language eventually became the national tongue. In the twelfth century, the immensely powerful Somerled became King of the Hebrides and Lord of Argyll. His successors, the MacDonalds, established Islay as their headquarters in the 1200s, but were in turn dislodged by Robert the Bruce, whose allies, the Campbells, eventually gained control of the entire area as the Dukes of Argyll - even today, they remain one of the largest landowners in the region.

In the aftermath of the last Jacobite uprising of 1745, Argyll, like the rest of the Highlands, was devastated by the Clearances, with thousands of crofters evicted and brutally butchered at the hand of the Hanoverians to make room for profitable sheep farming - "the white plague" - and cattle-rearing. More recently forestry plantations have dramatically altered the landscape, whilst purpose-built marinas have sprouted up all around the heavily indented coastline. Today the traditional industries of fishing and farming are in deep crisis, leaving the region ever more dependent on tourism, EU grants and a steady influx of new settlers to keep things going. Gaelic, once the language of the majority in Argyll, retains only a tenuous hold on the outlying islands of Islay, Coll and Tiree.

Public transport throughout Argyll is minimal, although buses do serve most major settlements and the train line goes as far as Oban. In the remoter parts of the region and on the islands, you will have to rely on a combination of walking, shared taxis and the post bus. If you're planning to take a car across to one of the islands, it is essential that you book both your outward and return journeys as early as possible, as the ferries do get very booked up

Touring Scotland’s historic islands is much simpler now thanks to Caledonian MacBrayne Island Hopscotch Ticket. With one of these you are free to hop from island to island on a number of different routes- for less than the price of an individual journey. For further information go to www.visitscotland.com or phone 08705 650000/01475 650100. National Rail Enquiries - Tel: 08457 484950, National and international flights to Glasgow Airport (Tel 0141 887 1111) for timetables and price guides.

These sites are also very useful:

www.highlandtraveler.com
www.travelsintime.com
www.aboutargyll.com
www.VisitBute.comf1

Help Conserve our Natural Heritage

Please remember that as well as being a beautiful area to visit, many of the places described here are environmentally sensitive areas and home and work place to the local people. You can help conserve the area and its way of life in many small ways, by observing the Country Codes:

* Use local shops and garages, rather than bringing all your own food and fuel with you
* Look out for local crafts and produce to buy and support local events
* Stay overnight, or have an evening meal before going home
* Park your car responsibly - farm gateways are 'workplace' entrances
*Shut gates - it can take many hours to round up stray animals
* 'Take nothing but photographs, keep nothing but memories, leave nothing but footprints, Kill nothing but time!'

Thank you for taking the time to read this brief but informative description of Argyll, and I look forward to chatting more with you - see you soon.

Saille/Lance

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"County Guides No.20 - Argyll" | Login/Create an Account | 5 News and Comments
  
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Re: by Anonymous on Wednesday, 20 July 2005
I have studied the highland clearances this year, and I just wishj to say they were terrible. I read in pieces about newspapers of the time, that for instnace 100s died of typhus in teh famines of teh 1840s,. and others in other famines. I also read that many 100s died of fatigue of being evicted from the villages they had lived in. And that the local lairds, I use taht word with horror, as teh word to me now is an insult, became some of the richest people in britain. People died of cholera on teh terrible ships to Americva, Some ships may have been ok,. but travelling in thos times was allways dangerous. And in the 1831, cholera epidemic Inverness was affected twice as badly per head as London. I also read that the thing was never recognised as bad, by either the British monarchym, or British right wing elite. And there have allways been claims, it was accidental, and tehy allways have lies, Fotr instance a recent ine claims that the Clearances did not happen. And that the famines did nlot happen. He said as there ware no mass graves it did not happen. This view is insane. Lets face it there are no mass graves to the udf or ira kills, but that does not mean they did not kill anybody. They died individallu of these famines. I read newspaper of the Times, which said they did. Now the mad rightists will claim teh Times, was leiing, and wrong. And that the Times,. of teh 1840s was a marxist politically correct newspaper , evenm though it was owned by facsit lords, and millionaires. I think these peopel who write these holocaust denial histories are going to hell.
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Re: by Saille on Thursday, 19 August 2004
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Sorry its taken so long for me to answer your question Nicola

Crannogs are a type of ancient loch-dwelling found throughout Scotland and Ireland, while one has been discovered in Wales in Llangorse Lake, I hav'nt herd about any in the Lakes although Glastonbry tor, in Somerset has also been classed by some as a early Crannog. Most are circular structures that seem to have been built as individual homes to accommodate extended families. Other types of loch settlements are also found in Scandinavian countries and throughout Europe.

Crannogs are also known as artificial or modified natural islands and they were as much a product of their environment as the period in which they were constructed.

The authentic crannog reconstruction which forms the focal part of the Scottish Crannog Centre was built by the Scottish Trust for Underwater Archaeology or STUA. The Scottish Trust for Underwater Archaeology is a registered charity (number SCO18418) and was formed to promote the research, recording, and preservation of Scotland's underwater heritage.


The earliest loch-dwelling in Scotland is some 5,000 years old but people built, modified, and re-used crannogs in Scotland up until the 17th century AD. Throughout their long history crannogs served as farmers' homesteads, status symbols, refuges in times of trouble, hunting and fishing stations, and even holiday residences. Here in Highland Perthshire, the prehistoric crannogs were originally timber-built roundhouses supported on piles or stilts driven into the lochbed.

In more barren environments and in later periods tons of rock were piled onto the lochbed to make an island on which to build a stone house. Today the crannogs appear as tree-covered islands or remain hidden as submerged stony mounds. Several hundred have been discovered so far in Scotland although only a few have been investigated.

I hope this has answered your question, anything else you need to know please ask.

Love and light

Saille

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Re: by nicoladidsbury on Wednesday, 07 April 2004
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Have you read the Sea Kingdoms by Alistair Moffat, its paints a great picture of our early history and the sea. Its a fantastic book, I wish he would write one about the Lakes!
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    Re:sea kingdoms by Saille on Monday, 26 April 2004
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    Hi Nicola, im sorry to say i have'nt read this book the name rings a bell though, as anything to do with early Celt or pict mythology of the Archipelago landscape srikes cords with me.
    In the same way as our Crannog living Ancestors ?.
    [ Reply to This ]
      Re:sea kingdoms by nicoladidsbury on Thursday, 29 April 2004
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      Sorry Saile, I didn't notice your reply.
      The sea kingdoms is really about our history from the earliest prehistoric times, through the celts and vikings to the Lords of the Isles. It brings a whole new light to our history. I definately recommend it as an excellent book.
      I know very little about the Crannogs, and I don't remember them being mentioned in the book.
      Who were the peoples who built the Crannogs? Do you think there are any in the Lakedistrict? Our peoples were very close at one time.
      [ Reply to This ]

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