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<< Our Photo Pages >> Nemi Temple of Diana - Ancient Temple in Italy in Lazio/Roma

Submitted by ivanjohnson on Saturday, 27 February 2010  Page Views: 33116

Roman, Greek and ClassicalSite Name: Nemi Temple of Diana Alternative Name: Artemisium Nemorense, Temple of Diana Nemorensis
Country: Italy Region: Lazio/Roma Type: Ancient Temple
Nearest Town: Nemi  Nearest Village: Nemi
Latitude: 41.724000N  Longitude: 12.710000E
Condition:
5Perfect
4Almost Perfect
3Reasonable but with some damage
2Ruined but still recognisable as an ancient site
1Pretty much destroyed, possibly visible as crop marks
0No data.
-1Completely destroyed
2 Ambience:
5Superb
4Good
3Ordinary
2Not Good
1Awful
0No data.
4 Access:
5Can be driven to, probably with disabled access
4Short walk on a footpath
3Requiring a bit more of a walk
2A long walk
1In the middle of nowhere, a nightmare to find
0No data.
4 Accuracy:
5co-ordinates taken by GPS or official recorded co-ordinates
4co-ordinates scaled from a detailed map
3co-ordinates scaled from a bad map
2co-ordinates of the nearest village
1co-ordinates of the nearest town
0no data
no data

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Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The remains of one corner the Roman temple. Trompe l'oeil wall on left, altar at rear, painted columns on right. There are some nice mosaic floors with ivy motifs near this but I didn't include the photos because they're microlithic. (Vote or comment on this photo)
Ancient Temple in Lazio/Roma.
This is the famous Temple of Diana at Lake Nemi about 25km south-east of Rome. Its modern fame comes largely from the descriptions and analysis in both James Frasier's "Golden Bough" and in Robert Graves' "The White Goddess" (both recommended).
According to those books this temple complex is the epicentre of the Mediterranean pre-Christian matriarchal cult of Danae (Diana, or the Tuatha de Danaan) and along with Diana it is also the home of "Rex Nemorensis" the "King of the Wood" - always an escaped slave that must slay the old Rex Nemorensis in order to become the new King of the Wood. Needless to say the King of the Wood could apparently look forward to a lifetime of sleeping with one eye open.

Built on the northern shore of this lovely and spectacular volcanic lake, the complex features a very large, now somewhat overgrown, Roman era platform with tall retaining walls intact on the west sides, and on the east sides are large porticoed retaining walls of part of the Roman temple. Though there are large Roman walls, niches, columns, and partial rooms with intact mosaic floors, as well as a few intact bits of original trompe l'oeil painted wall decorations, there's not a great deal that looks so impressive, but in this case it's the fascinating and crucial history of the place that makes it so interesting. This is apparently one of the main spiritual foci of ancient pagan Europe.

But...there is some stuff that is a bit more interesting if you don't mind risking getting shot for a little trespassing onto the adjacent farmland. The Romans appear to have built their huge, largely brick, structure down slope from what appears to be an older pre-Roman structure that is uphill to the north-east of the Roman structure.

If you accidentally fail to notice the "private property - do not enter" sign and yellow police tape fence across the breach in the north-eastern Roman wall and scramble up the steep and slide-prone dirt fall you come to a large terrace where some archaeological dig is in progress and there are a number of very old carved stones and structures partially exposed that look like wells or baths etc, some covered by tarps. These structures are not indicated on plan maps I have seen. Some appear to be older than the larger Roman part down the hill. This uncharted upper area may have been part of an old temple of Diana or perhaps part of an older temple of Isis that reportedly once graced the lakeside. Only a few small parts are uncovered so far but some of the dressed-edge stonework somewhat resembled the stonework in the Temple of Diana at Cefalu, Sicily. It looks to be years away from complete excavation.

Continuing another 15 - 20m up the slope to the north you come to some sort of cloister of ruined room walls that looks to be from the Roman era again. Then another 5 - 10m uphill from that is another large overgrown terrace that has a bunch of unexcavated low ruined walls visible. This was an intriguing part for me because at the very back of this area there are the low remains of a long crescent moon-shaped semi-arc wall about 10m across nestled against the hillside.

Now let me see; Diana's symbol is the crescent moon. This up-slope off limits section of structures seem to exhibit some of the oldest stonework (except for possibly the invisible temple described below). Perchance, could this crescent wall be a moon temple? Might be a coincidence of architecture, but it's the right shape. When this off limits area is finally laid bare it will probably be fairly interesting.

Also, there is another really interesting, but invisible, ruin west of the north-western wall of the Roman platform, invisible because:

"From 1924 to 1928 excavations were undertaken under the auspices of the state by Edoardo Gatti [during which a small theatre and a bath building were uncovered]. Gatti was unable to finish uncovering the buildings (particularly the theatre) and died before he could write up the report. Lucia Morpurgo (Not. Scav. 1931) nobly tackled the difficult task of publishing a dig she had not supervised (and that had been covered up when the work was completed), so that many questions raised by the partial excavation inevitably remained unanswered. Furthermore, Gatti’s excavations in the sanctuary were overshadowed by the discoveries of the imperial ships at the bottom of the lake. These magnificent “floating palaces” were raised (1927–32) and housed in a museum built for them beside the lake. The ships were destroyed in a fire on May 31, 1944 (Ghini 1992, 3–7), possibly the result of arson by retreating German troops. New excavations, admirably conducted and swiftly published, were begun in 1989 by Ghini (Ghini 1997, 2000)."
-Roman Religion and the Cult of Diana at Aricia - by C.M.C. Green
-[Catalogue of the Cypriot, Greek, and Roman Stone Sculpture in the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology - by Irene Bald Romano]
These fascinating structures were RE-BURIED! Apparently it is on a private farm and the owners allowed them to excavate it for study purposes but wanted the farmland back to make a living so the whole ruin was apparently re-buried and now it is just fields again with none of the structure visible. It is indicated however on all of the plan diagrams at the north-west end the site. It appears that it was a quite old and interesting quasi-megalithic ruin - a circular theatre or altar and pools or baths or something. Somebody should get that farmer another field somewhere so they can re-excavate this nifty structure, only now there's a house built right on top of the ruin!

The only photos I found of this now buried structure were on the placard display at the nearby Naval Museum just down the road from the temple (a spectacular 1920's modern concrete building). The position of the depicted structures was indicated on the plan diagram on that placard. I have included my poor snapshots of their buried theatre/baths photos among the photos for this page.

If you're into the Golden Bough/White Goddess/Tuatha de Danaan thing you'll be glad you visited this ruin complex. The town of Nemi perched on the cliff above the ruins is unusually beautiful and is famous for delicious tiny strawberries.

Nemi is an easy day trip from Rome and a beautiful drive (paralleling the Appian Way) to get there. I spent the night and really liked the town a lot. Because the lake is so evidently a volcanic cone the place has a mysterious primal feel and beauty that is unique even in Italy.

Note: Golden Bough from Roman mythology 'found in Italy'. See comment.
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Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Lake Nemi Temple of Diana overview looking north from the town of Nemi. The lake is to the left. (Vote or comment on this photo)

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : This old photo of the baths/pools is on the placard inside the Naval Museum by the lake. If you compare the site plan and the photo, it looks like this was a water-oriented structure ancillary to the buried theatre and possibly connected to it by a duct. It has also been re-buried. I believe the text translates "The thermal plumbing/installation/plant. Excavated in 1924" Considering how flat the s... (Vote or comment on this photo)

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The crescent-shaped wall, the highest-up ancient-looking structure on the hill. Was this the original moon temple? It's certainly the appropriate shape. (Vote or comment on this photo)

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E This is part of the crescent-shaped wall (horizontal line at center-left) and part of the straight walls that form its front (coming towards the camera), looking southeast. This is basically three terraces up the hill from the Roman level below. These were the highest (on the hillside) structures I could find and would not be surprised if they are very old. The crescent... (Vote or comment on this photo)

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The new excavation on private property. Wide view showing the several structures on the terrace immediately above the Roman temple level, looking northwest. Notice how the farmer's greenhouses butt right up to the excavation. I can see why farmers are reticent to let archaeologists dig - if they uncover a fabulous temple you lose your farmland! (Vote or comment on this photo)

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The Roman niches looking northeast.

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in Italy: Lake Nemi Temple of Diana overview with Nemi Naval Museum's survey plan superimposed over it to show locations of missing structures.

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in Italy: Photo of the round structure "The circular base (altar or tholos). Excavated in 1885" from the Nemi Naval Museum. I didn't find this object - its site seemed overgrown with thorny bushes.

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E Nemi Temple of Diana plan diagram

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E This is one of the only two pictures of the buried ruin. All I have on the re-buried temple is these blowups from the museum display placard - my battery was dead so I only got one wide shot of it. These old pictures are all blown up from that one snapshot. This temple was right next to the road that takes you up to the town of Nemi. If you look at the site plan, i...

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E All I have on the re-buried temple is these blowups from the museum display placard - my battery was dead so I only got one wide shot of it. These old pictures are all blown up from that one snapshot. This temple was right next to the road that takes you up to the town of Nemi. If you look at the site plan, it looks like this was an interesting semi-circular ruin. ...

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The new excavation on private property. Large stones with carved semi-cylindrical channel.

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E The new excavation on private property. These stones with dressed edges sort of resemble the ones used in the Temple of Diana in Cefalu, Sicily.

Nemi Temple of Diana
Nemi Temple of Diana submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E View of the Roman niches, and under the fiberglass roofs are the painted walls, altar and columns (looking southeast).

Nemi Temple of Diana Nemorensis
Nemi Temple of Diana Nemorensis submitted by ivanjohnson : Site in 41.724 N 12.71 E Wide view of the entire Diana temple site with the main temple structures in the center-right of the picture. Lake Nemi in background (looking southwest). Wide view of the entire Diana temple site with the main temple structures in the center-right of the picture. Lake Nemi in background (looking southwest).

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"Nemi Temple of Diana" | Login/Create an Account | 4 News and Comments
  
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Re: My Old Photos of Nemi temple structures by ivanjohnson on Thursday, 08 April 2010
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The old black & white and color photographs were on a poster inside the entrance to the Naval Museum of Nemi. These photos were originally from the excavations conducted in 1885 and 1924 - I re-photographed them with my camera. The structures depicted have all been re-buried after they were excavated in 1924, and are now still completely buried. None of the structures in those old photos are visible above ground now. Too bad - I'd like to see them myself! [Google Translate - Italian] Le vecchie fotografie in bianco e nero e colore sono su un poster dentro l'ingresso al Museo Navale di Nemi. Queste foto sono state originariamente dagli scavi effettuata nel 1885 e 1924 - I re-fotografato con la mia macchina fotografica. Le strutture che rappresentano sono stati tutti nuovamente sepolto subito dopo che erano stati scavati nel 1924, e ora sono ancora completamente interrati. Nessuna delle strutture in quelle vecchie foto sono visibili da terra ora. Peccato - Mi piacerebbe vederli me stesso! Dal mio articolo che accompagna la foto: "Dal 1924-1928 gli scavi sono stati effettuati sotto l'egida della stato di Edoardo Gatti [durante which uno piccolo teatro e un edificio termale sono state scoperte]. Gatti non ha potuto brillare scoprire il buildings (particularly il teatro), e morì prima di poter write della relazione. Lucia Morpurgo (not. Scav. 1931) nobilmente affrontato il difficile compito di pubblicare uno scavo che non aveva controllato (e che era stata coperta quando il lavoro è stato completato), così che molte questioni sollevate dalla scavo parziale inevitabilmente è rimasta senza risposta. Inoltre, Gatti scavi nel santuario sono stati offuscati dalle scoperte delle navi imperiali sul fondo del lago. Questi magnifici "palazzi galleggianti" sono stati aumentati (1927-32) e ospitato in un museo costruito per loro in riva al lago . Le navi furono distrutte in un incendio il 31 maggio 1944 (Ghini 1992, 3-7) "
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Golden Bough from Roman mythology 'found in Italy' by bat400 on Saturday, 27 February 2010
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Submitted by coldrum ---

Italian archaeologists claim to have found a stone enclosure which once protected the legendary "Golden Bough". In Roman mythology, the bough was a tree branch with golden leaves that enabled the Trojan hero Aeneas to travel through the underworld safely.

They discovered the remains while excavating religious sanctuary built in honour of the goddess Diana near an ancient volcanic lake in the Alban Hills, 20 miles south of Rome.

They believe the enclosure protected a huge Cypress or oak tree which was sacred to the Latins, a powerful tribe which ruled the region before the rise of the Roman Empire. The tree was central to the myth of Aeneas, who was told by a spirit to pluck a branch bearing golden leaves to protect himself when he ventured into Hades to seek counsel from his dead father.

In a second, more historically credible legend, the Latins believed it symbolised the power of their priest-king. Anyone who broke off a branch, even a fugitive slave, could then challenge the king in a fight to the death. If the king was killed in the battle, the challenger assumed his position as the tribe's leader.

The discovery was made near the town of Nemi by a team led by Filippo Coarelli, a recently retired professor of archaeology at Perugia University. After months of excavations in the volcanic soil, they unearthed the remains of a stone enclosure. Shards of pottery surrounding the site date it to the mid to late Bronze Age, between the 12th and 13th centuries BC.

"We found many, many pottery pieces of a votive or ritual nature," said Prof Coarelli. "The location also tells us that it must have been a sacred structure. We spent months excavating, during which we had to cut into enormous blocks of lava."

The stone enclosure is in the middle of an area which contains the ruins of an immense sanctuary dedicated to Diana, the goddess of hunting, along with the remains of terracing, fountains, cisterns and a nymphaeum.

"We know that trees were grown in containers at temple sites. The Latins gathered here to worship right up until the founding of the Roman republic in 509BC," said Prof Christopher Smith, the head of the British School at Rome, an archaeological institute.


For more, see http://www.telegraph.co.uk.
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    Re: Golden Bough from Roman mythology 'found in Italy' by ivanjohnson on Thursday, 08 April 2010
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    Great - thank you for posting that! If you find photos of their excavation please post the link or the source info here! I believe I'm recalling correctly that Frazier and Graves say that the Golden Bough was mistletoe, which also has interesting symbolic significance for Sufi mystics.
    Ivan
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Re: Nemi Temple of Diana by Anonymous on Friday, 28 August 2009
I know this is where the pleasure barges of Caligula were found and Caligula was a great admirer of Diana and no doubt spent some time at the temple. Thanks for the pictures.

Joe Geranio
Julio Claudian Icoonographic Association
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