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The Stone Circles of Britain, Ireland and Brittany, Aubrey Burl

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<< Our Photo Pages >> Craignish Sculptured Stones - Ancient Cross in Scotland in Argyll

Submitted by Anne T on Friday, 27 July 2018  Page Views: 3053

Early Medieval (Dark Age)Site Name: Craignish Sculptured Stones Alternative Name: Ardfern, Kilmory Chapel, Kirkton Chapel, St. Maelrubha’s Chapels, Caill Mairi, Craignish Parish Kirk
Country: Scotland
NOTE: This site is 0.33 km away from the location you searched for.

County: Argyll Type: Ancient Cross
Nearest Town: Oban  Nearest Village: Ardfern
Map Ref: NM7782601480
Latitude: 56.154080N  Longitude: 5.578924W
Condition:
5Perfect
4Almost Perfect
3Reasonable but with some damage
2Ruined but still recognisable as an ancient site
1Pretty much destroyed, possibly visible as crop marks
0No data.
-1Completely destroyed
3 Ambience:
5Superb
4Good
3Ordinary
2Not Good
1Awful
0No data.
4 Access:
5Can be driven to, probably with disabled access
4Short walk on a footpath
3Requiring a bit more of a walk
2A long walk
1In the middle of nowhere, a nightmare to find
0No data.
4 Accuracy:
5co-ordinates taken by GPS or official recorded co-ordinates
4co-ordinates scaled from a detailed map
3co-ordinates scaled from a bad map
2co-ordinates of the nearest village
1co-ordinates of the nearest town
0no data
5

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PAB visited on 17th May 2019 - their rating: Cond: 3 Amb: 4 Access: 4

Anne T visited on 16th Jul 2018 - their rating: Cond: 3 Amb: 4 Access: 4 Craignish Sculptured Stones, Kirkton: After having arrived at the cottage we were staying in for the next three nights, we decided to head off to find supper, but taking in a couple of sites on the way, one of which we learned about from Rachel Butter's Kilmartin book, the other marked on the OS map. Not the most auspicious of starts, as a lady on a bicycle rode (at speed) up from the lane leading to the castle and told us off for parking on the grass by the garage near the entrance to the castle. She told us the area opposite had been cleared for a car park. I apologised whilst Andrew moved the car and told her we thought the cleared area was just a large passing place, as the road just in front (heading south) split into two – one road to the castle, the other to Aird Farm. We got chatting and she eventually said ‘not to worry’ (a ‘park here’ notice might have helped). She pointed out the old Kirk and told us to ‘enjoy’, which we most certainly did! Having moved the car to the layby, we walked up to the metal gates up a short, grassy lane by the side of the modern cemetery, which had a “Craignish Sculptured Stones’ sign hanging on it, and let ourselves into the churchyard. Going through the south door into the church nave, turning to our left (west) there was a collection of old grave markers; to the east are some old box tombs. Almost straight in front of us was a cross base, not recorded on Canmore, with a sundial (see the highlighted entry below). There are a number of Canmore entries for this location. The ‘Kilmartin’ book by Rachel Butter (page 98) reads: Old Parish Church, Kilmarie, Craignish NM 778 014. This former parish church probably dates to the 13th century though much repair is more recent. It overlooks Loch Craignish and neighbours ruins of a former township, Kirkton. Its dedication was to St. Maelrubha of Applecross. The church contains a collection of medieval slabs which formerly were n the graveyard. Most of the carved stones are products of the 14-15th century Loch Awe School. They depict crosses, swords, armoured figures in niches, and are mostly carved in local epidiorite or quartzite gneiss. Some are of Easdale slate. There are also some Early Christian slabs (pre 10th century) and some 16th century stone chests. An epidiorite cross base is carved with a sundial; it has a central socket and 24 rays with cardinal points marked by crosses. Access: Six miles north of Kilmartin on the A816 take a left turn along the B8002 to Ardfern. You will come to the village after 1 mile. The chapel is a further 3 miles on the left. Kilmarie Church is in private ownership.



Average ratings for this site from all visit loggers: Condition: 3 Ambience: 4 Access: 4

Craignish Sculptured Stones
Craignish Sculptured Stones submitted by Anne T : The one cross slab on display under the shelter inside the chapel. This corresponds to Canmore 318669: slab 1.21m by 0.34m, much worn, which bears the pecked outline of a Latin cross, open at the foot. (Vote or comment on this photo)
Ancient Crosses and a Cross Base with Mass Clock in Argyll

In a notice inside this chapel, the Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Mid Argyll (NHASMA) tells us: "The origin of this Chapel is not precisely known, but I probably dates from the 12th or 13th century. It measures about 16.5 x 7.5 metres (55 x 25ft), with walls almost 1 metre (3ft) thick … the chapel was abandoned in 1692; it is not clear why … burial continued both in the churchyard and within the derelict church."

A second notice says: "These grave slabs have been moved under cover within the walls of this chapel. Their former positions were not the original ones. The stones are all carved in the locality and most are of 15th or 16th century date, although the small slab immediately inside the entrance bearing an incised Latin cross may be several centuries earlier … (also) a large base for a freestanding cross which has a “Mass-clock” (sundial) on its upper surface."

We became aware of these stones from Rachel Butter's book "Kilmartin" (1999), which tells us "there are .. some Early Christian slabs (pre-10th century) ... (and) An epidiorite cross base is carved with a sundial; it has a central socket and 24 rays with cardinal points marked by crosses."

The chapel is privately owned, but access is obtained through the gate with a large wooden sign announcing "Craignish Sculptured Stones". Walk through the small churchyard, with superb views onto Loch Craignish to the east; enter the chapel through the small arched doorway in the south wall. The collection of stones and the cross base is to your left hand side.

There is also a well at NM 7782 0153, built into a bank north of the chapel and graveyard. This has a small roofed well-house, now partly collapsed.

There are a number of entries in Canmore for this site (Canmore mentions two cross slabs, although there only appears to be one on display and mentioned in the NHASMA texts):
Canmore ID 318669 Early Medieval Cross Slab 1;
Canmore ID 319837 Early Medieval Cross Slab 2;
Canmore ID 22581 Craignish Old Parish Church; and
Canmore ID 80020 Kirkton Well.
The cross base with sundial does not appear to be mentioned on Canmore.

Note: Please note, when parking to look at these stones, please only use the layby on the opposite side of the road to the garage at the east of the entrance to Craignish Castle.
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Craignish Sculptured Stones
Craignish Sculptured Stones submitted by Anne T : The cross base, with its worn but still visible sundial. This lies flat to the ground to the east of the carved grave slabs, and sits under the shelter at the west end of the church. (Vote or comment on this photo)

Craignish Sculptured Stones
Craignish Sculptured Stones submitted by Anne T : A close up of the worn, but still visible, Mass Clock or sundial. Rachel Butter in her "Kilmartin" book (1999, page 98) describes this as: "An epidiorite cross base is carved with a sundial; it has a central socket and 24 rays with cardinal points marked by crosses." (Vote or comment on this photo)

Craignish Sculptured Stones
Craignish Sculptured Stones submitted by Anne T : The collection of sculptured stones, under the shelter at the west end of the chapel. The cross base with the mass-clock is in the foreground. (Vote or comment on this photo)

Craignish Sculptured Stones
Craignish Sculptured Stones submitted by Anne T : Cross Slab 1, Canmore 318669, is leaning against the internal south wall of the chapel, under the shelter, nearest to the small (and only) arched doorway into the chapel. Canmore mentions a second cross slab, Canmore 319837 (cross slab 2) but I've not yet identified this within the stones on display. The other grave markers are largely 15th and 16th century. There are four interestingly carved box... (Vote or comment on this photo)

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Nearby Images from Geograph Britain and Ireland:
NM7701 : Graveyard, Craignish by Alpin Stewart
by Alpin Stewart
©2014(licence)
NM7701 : Grave slabs, The Old Chapel, Craignish by Stuart Wilding
by Stuart Wilding
©2014(licence)
NM7701 : Grave slabs, The Old Chapel, Craignish by Stuart Wilding
by Stuart Wilding
©2014(licence)
NM7701 : Craignish Old Parish Church and graveyard by Richard Sutcliffe
by Richard Sutcliffe
©2018(licence)
NM7701 : Sculptured Stones, Craignish Old Parish Church by Richard Sutcliffe
by Richard Sutcliffe
©2018(licence)

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"Craignish Sculptured Stones" | Login/Create an Account | 2 News and Comments
  
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Re: Craignish Sculptured Stones by Anonymous on Saturday, 03 June 2023
Thanks so much for your wonderful info. I found chapel and stones yesterday per chance. This very post of you is so much welcome. Thanks again Marian
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Re: Craignish Sculptured Stones by Anne T on Friday, 27 July 2018
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Two notices are kept by the carved stones, underneath the shelter, but badly water-stained and faded at the time, so I thought it might be worth recording their content for future visitors:

Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Mid Argyll (Nhasma)
Craignish Sculptured Stones
These grave slabs have been moved under cover within the walls of this chapel. Their former positions were not the original ones. The stones are all carved in the locality and most are of 15th or 16th century date, although the small slab immediately inside the entrance bearing an incised Latin cross may be several centuries earlier. The four tomb chests at the east end all belong to the period 1500-1560 but the names of the persons interred are not known. Noteworthy features are the Crucifixion and hunting scenes on the end panels. Also under the shelter is a large base for a freestanding cross which has a “Mass-clock” (sundial) on its upper surface.
The shelter was built by public subscription and contributions towards its maintenance would be gratefully received. Money may be put in the box set in one of the gateposts at the cemetery gate or sent to the Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Mid Argyll, c/o The Bank of Scotland, Loghgilphead.

A second notice, also by NHASMA, reads:
The Chapel at Kirkton or Kilmarie, Craignish
The origin of this Chapel is not precisely known, but I probably dates from the 12th or 13th century. It measures about 16.5 x 7.5 metres (55 x 25ft), with walls almost 1 metre (3ft) thick. The entrance on the south side is surmounted by a rounded arch carved from a single piece of stone. There are five small splayed windows: two face to the east, two to the south and one to the north.
In the south wall to the left of the entrance (as seen from inside the chapel) is a niche to hold a receptacle for holy water, and in the east wall, on either side of where the altar stood, there are niches for the elements used during mass or communion. On either side of the chancel are four stone burial cists or tomb chests, three with broken top slabs; it is not known to whom they belonged. Many of the graves within the church (and in the surrounding churchyard) are those of ancient Craignish families – Campbell; MacDougall and others.
The chapel was abandoned in 1692 it is not clear why, but possibly because the Presbyterians of the time wished to dissociate themselves from its earlier use by Roman Catholics and Episcopalians. Worshippers then went instead to a ‘Preaching House’ in Ardfern village on the site of the present church which was built in the 1830s, with later modifications. Burials continued both in the churchyard and within the derelict church.
The Sculptured Stones are described in the adjacent notice. The roof shelter was installed to protect the stones by the Friends of the Craignish Carved Stones, and it is now maintained by the Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Mid Argyll.
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